• For a maximum gate leaf weight of 800kg.
• Non-reversible, permanently lubricated mechanism
• Maximum frequency of use: S3-50% at 20°C
• Up to 30 opening/closing cycles per hour
• Up to 300 opening/closing cycles per day
• Single-phase motor (230 VAC)
• Mechanism dimensions: 303x296x320 mm (LxWxH)
• Gate leaf movement speed: 9.6 m/min
• Motor power consumption: 287 W
• Features a key for disengagement (manual operation)
• Protection rating: IP44
• Gear type is Z17/module 4    
• Country of origin: Italy
• Warranty: 2 years

To order this product, call us at 210.555.0632 or buy it online from our e-shop.

Contents of the RIB K800 (Kit-Standard S) set

RIB K800 Mechanism - Dimensions

Choosing a sliding gate opener mechanism

• The weight of the sliding garage door. The RIB K800 mechanism is suitable for doors weighing up to 800kg.
• The frequency of daily use of the door. The RIB K800 mechanism is suitable for up to 300 opening/closing cycles per day.
• The frequency of hourly use of the door. The RIB K800 mechanism is suitable for up to 30 opening/closing cycles per hour.

The RIB K800 mechanism has an advantage over its competitors due to its ability to operate intensively. Even large housing complexes during peak hours rarely exceed 30 opening/closing cycles per hour (this corresponds to approximately one vehicle every two minutes). Also, 300 opening/closing cycles per day is enough that a sliding garage door will rarely exceed them.

Finally, the 800kg gate capacity covers most door cases, as an average iron gate weighs 50-60 kg/m. The point where special attention should be paid is that the door must operate smoothly in manual mode. This means that we test the door's movement without the mechanism or with the mechanism in manual operation. If the door does not operate smoothly, it must be repaired before installing the mechanism. Otherwise, it will cause problems to the mechanism and malfunctions will occur. 

Sliding garage door - Checks before mechanism installation

The most important check that needs to be done even before ordering the mechanism is to check if the door operates smoothly by hand. Open and close the door at a steady speed, approximately the same speed it would have with the mechanism. If at any point the movement presents difficulty, there is any shaking, etc., the door must be repaired before installing the mechanism.

The checks that must be done in detail are:

• If the rail is straight without bends, dents, and rust. It must also be properly secured to the ground.
• The door wheels must be in good condition. They must not show signs of deformation or rust. Their rolling must be trouble-free.
• Just before the door's closed position, check the door's oscillation. If it moves violently back and forth, intervention and repair of the door will be necessary. Possible repair points are the door's construction material (excessively flexible), the position where the rollers are placed (they have a large gap with the door), or the roller support point is quite flexible.
• The door must enter smoothly into the receptacle at the closed position. It must "lock" so that it is not easy to lift it with a crowbar.
• The open and closed positions of the door must be defined by mechanical stops. Under no circumstances should the gate leaf be free to pass beyond the closed or open position.

Typical arrangement of a sliding garage door with a mechanism

 In the sketch above, we observe a typical arrangement of a sliding garage door with a mechanism. Obviously, the main component of the construction is the gate leaf, which can be made of aluminum, metal, or wood. A basic prerequisite is that it must be robust and rigid enough to be able to move, while only touching the wheels and rollers without excessive oscillation.

The door must have mechanical stops to define the closed and open positions. The mechanical stops define the door's travel. 

The rollers are placed at such a point that they are in contact with the door leaf throughout its entire travel (from the completely open to the completely closed position). Essentially, the rollers keep the door perpendicular to the ground. A basic prerequisite is that they should not hinder the door's movement.

The door is supported by rollers which allow it to move. The movement takes place on the rail, which is shaped to work perfectly with the rollers. The rollers must be in good condition without signs of deformation or rust. The rail must be properly supported on the ground, straight, and free of bumps or deformities.

The motor is also placed at a point where it is always in contact with the door. The movement is transmitted to the door by the motor's gear. The rack, which is a toothed rail, is mounted on the door. The rack is the point of contact between the door and the motor, and through it, the movement is transmitted. 

Photocells are the most important accessory of a sliding garage door with a mechanism. They prevent accidents and protect both users and their vehicles. They are installed at the door opening and prevent the sliding door from closing when there is an obstacle in its path. 

Another accessory for a sliding garage door (not shown in the sketch) is the warning light. It is placed in a prominent position to warn passing vehicles and pedestrians that the garage door is in operation. It is a particularly useful device when the garage door is adjacent to a busy road or when visibility is not optimal. 

Installation of RIB K800 sliding mechanism

The rack spacers usually allow for minor adjustments of around 0.5cm. If the height at which the rack needs to be installed on the door is empty without a support point, we have two options. Either reinforce the door at that point or change the installation height of the mechanism (with a base) to reach the point where the rack can be installed.

In addition to the above limits for the installation of the mechanism, we must take into account that:

• it should not be placed in an area where water accumulates. If this suspicion exists, a base must be created so that the motor is higher.
• the door leaf should be approximately 40cm larger than the opening so that the motor can be placed outside the opening. Otherwise, there is a risk that the motor will be hit by a passing vehicle.
• the base must be placed on a stable foundation. If there is no such foundation (e.g., a reinforced concrete slab), a concrete base must be created.

Next, we define the position of the accessories. If there are photocells, a flashing light, etc., we define their position and then route the wiring. A detailed chapter on wiring will follow below. We simply state that it should be done by a professional electrician and with adherence to all safety rules.

When installing the base, we check that it is perfectly parallel to the door. We also check with a spirit level that it is perfectly horizontal. The large hole in the base is for passing the cables. The base is installed with plugs (metal anchors) into the reinforced concrete.

Next, remove the mechanism cover. To remove it, unscrew the corresponding screws. Secure the mechanism to the two screws protruding from the base. Place it on the base and tighten the screws.

To operate the mechanism manually, lift the small door, insert the key into the lock, and turn it counter-clockwise as many turns as needed until the key stops. In this position, the motor has been disengaged, and we leave it in this state until the rack installation is complete.

Caution: Before welding operations, disconnect the terminals from the control panel.

 The metal rack consists of one-meter pieces. Each piece has three oval-shaped holes in which the spacers are placed. 

It is good to screw the spacers in the middle of the holes so that there is potential for minor adjustments if needed later. As we can see in the diagram above, there is the wide side of the spacer (shoulder) which is welded to the door. The main point of attention during rack installation is the small gap that must exist between the gear and the rack. 

 This gap helps in the proper operation of the door. If it is not present, the motor is forced to carry the door, and at some point it will inevitably wear out and malfunction. If the gap is too large, the gear may "kick" and the door's movement may not be correct. In both cases, problems may arise with either the door or the motor. 

 The correct gap is approximately 1.5 mm. To achieve this, we can place the mechanism on a surface of this thickness and proceed with the installation of the rack in contact with the gear. Then, after removing this surface, the motor will move down by 1.5 mm, thus creating the necessary gap.

During the installation of the rack, we must not weld the pieces of the rack together and we must maintain its pitch. Also, the rack must not be welded to the spacers. The following diagram shows exactly the procedure to be followed.

It is also important to ensure that the gear meshes with the rack throughout its entire travel. If necessary, we can loosen the mechanism's support and move it vertically to the door leaf to achieve the correct position. 

The necessary check for the correct installation of the rack is performed by opening and closing the door at a steady speed. If the door moves smoothly without shaking, noises, etc., then the rack installation is correct. Afterwards, we can tighten the screws of the spacers as well as the motor's mounting screws.

Important note: Before operating the mechanism electrically, we must first confirm the opening direction (that it is correct) and install the limit switches.

Next, the terminals included in the mechanism set are installed. Under no circumstances should improvised terminals be used or their shape modified, as this will cause the mechanism to malfunction. The terminals are placed in such a way as to activate the mechanism's limit switches. This is done by pushing the spring-loaded stem of the mechanism in one direction or the other. Special care is required so that the door stops 2cm before the final position in both the open and closed positions. In this way, the door will not hit any of the fixed points at the end of its travel.